From bw@ashbysolutions.com Fri Nov 23 05:10:42 2012
Subject:Re: Help me identify what I found rattling inside my Korg CX-3 V2

To get to the keybed, you need to remove 1) the wooden top; 2) the
metal trim piece that goes over the drawbar slot; 3) the trim panel
that has the display and switches. All in all, about 25 screws or so,
in 3-4 different colors/sizes, IIRC. Keep track of which is which.

You will also have to disconnect a number of cables. This isn't
necessarily a bad thing, because CX-3s sometimes develop strange
problems -- failing buttons and LEDs, 'haunted' behavior -- after a
number of years that are cured by simply unplugging and reseating these
same connectors. Keep track of where they were plugged in, although
based on size and cable length, I think the only connectors that easily
get crossed are Drawbar1 vs. Drawbar2.

[Note: If any of this scares you, now is the time to call your local
repair tech.]

You do NOT need to remove the keybed to remove and repair keys. (If the
key switches themselves fail, then the keybed has to come out, but this
is a pretty rare issue.) Take the spring off the back end, and then the
key should be able to be removed by pulling forward. You should be able
to tell which key is missing its counterweight by comparing its action
to that of its neighbors: it will feel lighter to the touch, and maybe
sound a little different when playing staccato. If you have one cracked
key, though, there is a chance that there are others. I re-glued a
sharp on my V1, then another one broke in a couple of weeks. At that
time I inspected all of the keys and found 2-3 others that had small
cracks in the counterweight area and needed a little 'help.' Once they
were fixed, though, the organ continued on just fine; i.e., it wasn't a
continual problem with all the keys, just a matter of weeding out a
couple of weak ones. I never had this issue on my BX-3, which is by
definition a 'V2.'

________
What's interesting is that the keybed in the CX-3 is essentially the
same one used in the Nord Electro, but I've only heard of these problems
on the Korg side. One difference: Korg uses 'aged' (yellowed) keys,
while Clavia uses white ones. I wonder if the plastic composition is
slightly different? Or Korg uses heavier key weights?

Interesting side story: The Fatar waterfall keybed that is used in many
B-3 clones was actually developed for Korg. However, it took longer to
develop than hoped, and Korg made the decision not to use it for the
CX-3 V1. Within a couple of months, though, Clavia had released the
Nord Electro (1), and the world said, "Finally, someone has listened to
us players and made waterfall keys!"

Regards,

-BW

Bruce Wahler
Ashby Solutions.com^(TM)
bw@ashbysolutions.com
http://music.ashbysolutions.com
877.55.ASHBY (877.552.7429)

On 11/23/2012 6:50 AM, kjralyea@yahoo.com wrote:
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